Award-winning food writer, cookbook author and columnist Diana Henry speaks to Rosalind Sack to share her ingredients for a joyful Christmas, the dishes she will be preparing for her festive guests and how to host with less stress
(LEFT) CELEBRATED FOOD WRITER, AUTHOR AND COLUMNIST DIANA HENRY; (RIGHT) THE ALL-IMPORTANT STAR-TOPPED MINCE PIES; (RIGHT) WHITE LINENS, SILVER CUTLERY AND FLORAL TOUCHES, HERE WITH WILLOW CROSSLEY’S BOTANICA TABLECLOTH
Known and loved for her rich, evocative writing and accessible recipes inspired by global flavours, Diana Henry is celebrated for making home cooking both elegant and achievable. So who better to turn to for inspiration for our own festive feasting? From her favourite Scandinavian flavours on Christmas Eve, to Christmas Day goose and crowd-pleasing Boxing Day sandwiches; Diana shares her mouthwatering rituals.
What does Christmas mean to you, personally?
It’s always been one of my favourite times of year – if not the favourite – I love the music, the cooking, the smells, the tree, the fairy lights. I always feel sad when it’s all over. I struggle to take the Christmas tree down.
What are your earliest memories of Christmas cooking?
When I look back I can’t actually remember being part of it until I was about 10 years old. It was probably from that age that I took an active part in it. My sister and I did lots of preparation, making as much as possible in the days running up to Christmas Day itself – everything was made from scratch, the pudding, the brandy butter, stuffing, cranberry sauce, cake, mince pies. It was a lot of work but we loved it.
Do you have any special festive food traditions in your family?
At home in Northern Ireland a prawn cocktail made with big Dublin Bay Prawns was a must on the big day. It’s more difficult to get them now, sadly, so we often end up with cold water prawns which are much smaller and taste less intense. Langoustines are fat and sweet.
Do you prefer the classic dishes of turkey and brandy-soaked pudding on Christmas day, or something a little more unusual?
We have goose. I used to alternate it with turkey but my sons love goose and we’ve stuck to that for a number of years. The side dishes is the area where I allow myself to do something unusual, though dishes very quickly become a ‘must’. I do braised cabbage with plum jelly and star anise. It’s delicious.
Is there one dish or ingredient that is a non-negotiable for you over Christmas?
Bread sauce. Nutmeg is the smell of Christmas.
DIANA HENRY’S CHOCOLATE, HAZLENUT AND SHERRY CAKE WITH SHERRY-RAISIN CREAM FROM CRAZY WATER, PICKLED LEMONS. IMAGE: JASON LOWE
How do you approach putting together a menu for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day?
I actually start thinking about this in the middle of November, making lists and decisions about what we will eat on these three days. Christmas Eve is often Scandinavian food – gravlax, Swedish meatballs – or fish pie. Christmas Day is the goose and Boxing Day is sandwiches which we all love – I always make sure there are plenty of salad leaves so that the sandwiches have greens in them and aren’t just big slabs of meat and stuffing.
You are hugely inspired by different cultures and the places you travel. What are some of your favourite Christmas dishes or festive influences from overseas?
Definitely Scandinavia, as above, but also Germany – I love their ways with goose and have been doing one stuffed with bread, apples and prunes for quite a few years now. I discovered it in Lubeck in northern Germany where I went to do research for my next book.
Christmas cooking, often for larger groups than one might be used to, can often feel rather overwhelming. What advice can you share for those hosting this Christmas to help keep stress levels to a minimum?
Do as much as possible in advance, including taking serving dishes out of the cupboards and putting a paper note in each one for what it’s for. You can waste time on Christmas Day if you don’t do this. Same with glassware – if you are using expensive stuff you don’t use often get it out and wash it. I like to set the table on Christmas Eve if possible. I even make gravy in advance – often that is the last minute thing that makes you tear your hair out.
What does your Christmas dinner table look like?
A white linen cloth, silver cutlery, beautiful glasses (the glasses are a pain as they have to be handwashed but they feel so fine I use them). I make decorations too, usually a combination of white flowers and holly. There’s a big candle in the middle of the table surrounded by flowers and holly and ribbons and little sprigs of flowers for each napkin.
Where will you be spending Christmas this year and who will be cooking?
I will be at home in London with my sons. They both help. We cook together. My eldest son is a doctor and isn’t always available at Christmas but this year we know he will be and we’re so happy.
Around the Table is a selection of some of bestselling writer Diana Henry’s very best essays on food, handpicked from over two decades of her much-loved cookbooks. RRP £20, published by Octopus.
You can share this interview with friends and followers using the share buttons at the top of the page. And discover more Christmas recipes on The Home Page here and below.
